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The purpose of this forum is to be able to report dangerous bolts to the ASCA for replacement. The ASCA's goal is bad bolt replacement, not the addition of new bolts to existing routes. There is no guarantee that bolts reported here will be replaced. Please view our disclaimer. Include as much information as possible: -- The date you observed the bolt -- Photos if possible -- Be accurate with the location, include pitch number (if applicable) and bolt number or anchor -- Identity of the bolt We encourage you to register for this forum, if you do not wish to register, please login with username "ihatebadbolts" and password "slcaslca".
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rob duncan
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Post subject: all chalk no action update?  Posted: Fri Aug 21, 2009 2:25 pm |
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Joined: Fri Aug 21, 2009 2:14 pm
Posts: 4
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Hi all,
I have been up to All Chalk a few times this summer and the bolts seem a bit manky for such a classic line that gets climbed rather frequently. I am not sure that any are absolutely bad; a few seem protected with glue but some of the hangers don't exactly look that great. I have absolutely no experience in these matters- if the bolts are bomber I will defer to those wiser than I.
I wouldn't mind helping out with time/money to upgrade some of these bolts if anyone wants to show me the ropes; I would be interested to see the whole process first hand.
Rob
oh yeah, and one of the anchor bolts is a spinner now; looks like a washer could be used to seat the hanger more firmly.
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ClayW
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Post subject: Re: all chalk no action update? Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 9:13 pm |
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| SLCA Liason |
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Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2009 8:41 pm
Posts: 31
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Rob,
I know this comes up every year and many people have said they don't like these bolts. Last year, Mike White said he'd seen these bolts and they are fine. I did it thursday morning and I think everything is OK too. A little spin for sure but they're bomber - especially the bottom few. I'll likely go back this week and will bring a wrench to tighten that anchor if you haven't already.
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rob duncan
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Post subject: Re: all chalk no action update? Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 2:24 pm |
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Joined: Fri Aug 21, 2009 2:14 pm
Posts: 4
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Thanks for the update Clay, I will happily defer to your better judgement.
Perhaps if you are in need of help or want to show someone the ropes (pun intended) concerning bolt replacement you might hit me up in the future.
Cheers!
rob
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Alexis Mollard
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Post subject: Re: all chalk no action update? Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 8:55 am |
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Joined: Fri Jul 10, 2009 10:29 am
Posts: 10
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Update: Clay I don't know if you had time to take a wrench up there but the anchor bolt is still loose, loose enough that I easily removed it and threatened my belayer with the chain. I then put the whole thing back of course. Seems like the bolt sits in a scoop and the hanger can't be tightened much without contacting the rock and quickly becoming loose again.
As for the bolts on All Choss, the hangers are glued in weird positions. I'm not sure if it's recent but I believe the 3rd bolt was pretty much glued horizontally and when I took a fall on it I distinctly heard the glue break and the hanger spin down. Pretty scary...
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mike white
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Post subject: Re: all chalk no action update? Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 11:41 am |
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Joined: Thu Apr 30, 2009 5:25 am
Posts: 72
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Zac Robinson
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Post subject: Re: all chalk no action update? Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 9:21 pm |
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| SLCA Board Member |
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Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2009 10:32 pm
Posts: 71
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Alexis Mollard
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Post subject: Re: all chalk no action update? Posted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 2:07 pm |
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Joined: Fri Jul 10, 2009 10:29 am
Posts: 10
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Mike, I'll call you, I might be up there tomorrow.
While we're talking GreenA, I did Stranger Than Friction this morning and it's in poor condition along with its neighbor (Surprise Beginning?).
Anyway, 2 spinning 1/4" buttonheads, 1 sad pin and one petzl hanger that looks solid.
The bottom 2 bolts protect the crux, the 2nd sticks out a bunch, the hole is visible and cone-shaped. Ugly.
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mike white
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Post subject: Re: all chalk no action update? Posted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 6:21 pm |
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| ASCA/SLCA |
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Joined: Thu Apr 30, 2009 5:25 am
Posts: 72
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Lets do this.
10:30 at the gate oparking lot tomorrow.
Zach will be there and my buddy josh. If anybody wants to go in the morning and string ropes that would be sweet.
801-243-3110
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Alexis Mollard
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Post subject: Re: all chalk no action update? Posted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 7:14 pm |
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Joined: Fri Jul 10, 2009 10:29 am
Posts: 10
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The 3rd bolt on Stranger looks like that, maybe a bit less manky. Petzl hanger. Never seen one before
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Rob Candland
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Post subject: Re: all chalk no action update? Posted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 9:31 pm |
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| SLCA Board Member |
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Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2009 12:50 pm
Posts: 147
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Ugly
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bad-bolts38.jpg [ 7.87 KiB | Viewed 395 times ]
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