What is the Wasatch Anchor Replacement Initiative (WARI)?

As climbers we cannot ignore stewardship of our vertical trails – that means fixed bolts and anchors. Many routes developed in the 80s have hardware in need of replacement for a myriad of reasons including corrosion from non-stainless steel hardware that was installed. The hardware on climbing routes has a lifespan. Our goal is to replace this hardware before that lifespan ends and the hardware fails.

The SLCA is actively replacing anchors and bolts in the Wasatch. Re-bolting projects are vetted and chosen by the SLCA’s Wasatch Anchor Replacement Initiative Committee that falls under the direction of the SLCA Board. The Access Fund’s Resource Page Fixed Anchors (https://www.accessfund.org/educate-yourself/for-advocates/managing-fixed-anchors) along with local ethics guide best practices for this initiative.

“Learning how to replace a bolt correctly and with the least impact—or supporting others’ efforts to replace bolts—is critical to sustaining crags and to maintaining access. Accidents caused by bolt failures could endanger access, just as replacing bolts without regard for the best practices in a particular area can endanger it.” Access Fund

Thank you to the Access Fund, American Alpine Club, and the Petzl Foundation for their continued support. Do your part and donate today to this effort. Become a SLCA Member and Donate Now (http://www.saltlakeclimbers.org/donate/).

By Julia Geisler, SLCA Executive Director

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