Best Practices Guidelines for Route Development IN THE WASATCH
September 22, 2018
Route and Anchor Placement Guidelines
-Don’t add bolts to existing routes
-Don’t add bolts where natural protection (e.g. cams or nuts) is adequate and available
-Don’t develop routes in historically, culturally or ecologically sensitive areas
-Don’t chip or glue holds
-Don’t excessively clean routes
-Don’t over-develop crags or develop routes on top of, or nearly on top of, existing routes
-Do consult local route developers to learn best practices
-Do consult local route developers to learn about existing routes
-Do consult land managers to learn of development procedures
-Do consult local ecologists to learn of possible ecologically sensitive issues
Hardware Guidelines
-Use stainless steel bolts and hangers
-Use stainless steel quicklinks to connect zinc-plated chain to stainless steel hangers
-Use a stainless steel hammer to install stainless steel bolts
-Minimum of 3/8‐inch bolt diameter
-Minimum of 3-inch bolt length
-Construct belay anchors with two separate bolts
-Quicklinks and chain should be a minimum of 5/16”
-Chain lengths should be as short as possible without compromising safety
-Zinc plated chains and quicklinks may be used for climbing top anchors, provided that a stainless steel quicklink is used to interface between the stainless steel hanger and zinc plated chain
(Be aware that non-stainless steel hardware may eventually lead to rust staining and streaking)
-Avoid sharing top anchors when possible
-Top anchors should be placed in an appropriate location with safety and rope retrieval considered
-Top anchor bolts should be placed at least twice the distance apart as the depth of the bolt holes.
-Top anchors should not be set back from the edge if possible
-Fixed anchor spacing should be consistent and reasonable
-Holes should be drilled 1 inch deeper than necessary to facilitate future bolt replacement efforts
*Adapted largely from Castle Rocks State Park’s Climbing Management Plan