Thanks to all who came out to Black Diamond's 1st Annual Salt Lake Climbers Alliance Fundraiser. We have heard lots of great feedback about the slideshows, the food and most importantly, the chance to mingle and share stories about the Wasatch in years past. Look for a full write-up soon.

Join us this Saturday, June 5, when the SLCA will host the third Stewardship Project for the 2010 project season. We will be meeting at the Ferguson Canyon Trailhead at 8:30am for a light breakfast and then hike into the canyon to finish up the construction of the final rock retaining walls/belay pads that we worked on last season. We will also accomplish some general trail maintenance and possibly work on other erosion issues above the belay pads.

We recommend that you bring gloves, water, snacks, a lunch, and any personal gear. If you have tools (rock bars, buckets, sledges, pick mattocks, etc.) bring them.

Please contact Jeff (jeff@saltlakeclimbers.org) if you have any questions.

We are pleased to announce Black Diamond's 1st Annual Salt Lake Climbers Alliance Fundraiser. This year we are celebrating the alpine spirit of Seth Shaw with a night of music, food, slide shows, friends and fun.

Join us Thursday, May 20th 2010 from 6-10 PM at the Black Diamond courtyard at 2084 East 3900 South, Salt Lake City. Food and beverages will be provided by Desert Edge Brewery with Lortsher & Vlasic doing the catering. There will be stories, a raffle and slide shows by Doug Heinrich, Drew Bedford and the SLCA.

Tickets per person will be $30 before May 15th and $35 after May 15th, premium tickets are $50 and cover entrance to the event, an SLCA yearly membership, t-shirt and gym passes. (While they last!) Tickets can be purchased at the Black Diamond retail store located at 2084 East 3900 South or I.M.E. located at 3265 East 3300 South.

The SLCA would not exist without the generous support of the climbing community, our sponsors and individual climbers like you! Please help us continue our efforts to protect access and maintain crags by attending this fun event.

A big thank you to all who joined us Saturday in our efforts to improve the Egg trail! With the help of at least forty volunteers, the popular approach to Crescent Crack, the Egg and other areas saw the addition of ten timber check dams/water bars and one grade dip all designed to divert water and to reduce trail erosion.

The inaugural "Purge the Spurge" portion of the project netted hundreds of pounds of invasive myrtle spurge and concluded with re-seeding of the affected areas with native grasses. A very special thanks to the Oakley School for their participation, to Outdoor Research for their generous donation of dry bags, and to Jeff, Zac and Shingo for their efforts in organizing the day's festivities.

The next stewardship project will be on June 5th when we revisit Ferguson Canyon to finish up the belay terraces and accomplish general trail maintenance.

Project Season Continues

Join the SLCA this upcoming Saturday, May 8th, in Little Cottonwood Canyon as we revisit our trail project to the Crescent Crack Area.

We will be meeting at the Little Cottonwood Canyon Park and Ride at 8:30am for a light breakfast and then will maintain the Crescent Crack Buttress access trail by installing check dams and constructing water diversion structures. In addition, our friends at Outdoor Research will be sponsoring the Purge the Spurge portion of the project, where we will scour the vicinity and eradicate populations of the invasive Myrtle Spurge.

We recommend that you bring gloves, water, snacks, lunch, and personal gear. Also, the Myrtle Spurge contains a poisonous white sap that can cause serious skin irritations, so be prepared and protect yourself by wearing a long sleeve shirt, gloves, and even eye protection. Finally, some tools will be provided, but if you have your own tools to bring, we would appreciate it (specifically digging shovels, pick mattocks, loppers, tamping bars, buckets, etc.).

After the trail day, we will reconvene at the Front Climbing Club in downtown Salt Lake City for another re-installment of Movie Night! On the list for this weekend is Big Stone. Produced by Salt Lake's own Drew Bedford, Big Stone follows Jason Campbell as he onsights Moonlight Buttress in Zion National Park. Drew then cruises over to Yosemite National Park to chase Lynn Hill up a one-day free ascent of The Nose and also Tommy Caldwell's free ascent of the Salathe Wall, both on El Cap.

After life on the big wall, we will turn towards a much more local film. Adam Riser, a local climber, skier and biker, spent the greater part of the last year playing and documenting his exploits in the Wasatch and beyond. Come watch Salt Lake locals as they show us some of the best our land has to offer on bikes, skis and on the rock. Presenting, The Crew, a film By Adam Riser. Join us at the Front Climbing Club at 7pm for the start of another movie night!

If you have any questions, contact us here or through our forum.

Joe's Valley Update
Just another reminder that the SLCA has commissioned two latrines for climbers and campers' use in Joe's Valley. They can both be found in the right fork of Joe's Valley. The first latrine is up from Man Size, while the second can be found in the Buoux area camping. Please continue making donations to support facilities like these season after season. Hopefully, our stewardship, as climbers, can be the first step towards the establishment of permanent facilities in high traffic areas like Joe's Valley.

Access to the Salt Lake Slips, Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT
Just a reminder: To access the Slips climbing area in Big Cottonwood Canyon, please park up-canyon from the climbing and walk over the top of Storm Mountain Island from the pass northwest of the picnic grounds using the new trail the SLCA and Forest Service built in 2006. This short approach avoids the creek crossing, which can be dangerous, especially during high water. Please note that tyrolean traverses set up across the creek are not allowed by the Forest Service and will be removed.

SAVE THE DATE!

Save the date of May 20, 2010 for an SLCA Dinner in the memory of Seth Shaw. Dinner and slide shows, good friends and Wasatch history. Keep the evening of Thursday May 20th open!

Recap of April 2010 SLCA Events

Last month, many people joined with the SLCA for a few successful events. A small crew was inspired to head up to Pete's Rock to help kick off our 2010 season of stewardship projects.
We spent about 2 hours picking up trash and dispersing fire pits that have shown up in the area. Thanks to SLCA supporter, Hilary Lufkin for spearheading, organizing and bringing food!

The same day, another crew made it North to Ogden to help out with the Front Climbing Club and Weber State's annual Climbfest. We built trails, picked up trash and tackled some serious graffiti removal in the 27th Street Boulders.

The SLCA has projects planned each month until our Annual Adopt-a-Crag event in the Fall. Details will be posted on the website. Until then we plan on seeing you this Saturday, May 8th, 2010 to revisit our trail projects in Little Cottonwood Canyon.

• Message From The Chair:
  This last weekend, Jeff Porucznik (SLCA Projects Chair) and I attended the Access Fund's 2010 Local Climbing Organizations Spring Summit down in Red Rocks. It had been a long time since I had attended a summit, and I was impressed with how far LCO's have come. Read more...

  

• Wasatch Canyons Tomorrow Survey:
  Just another reminder to fill out the third and final round of the Wasatch Canyons Tomorrow Final Surveys, and thanks to all of you that have taken the time to participate in the previous surveys. Envision Utah has narrowed it down to the brass tacks, and now is the time to make your voice heard. The next step will be a final report that will make recommendations in the development of the County's Master Plan. A fee system for the Cottonwoods is under consideration, along with the appropriation of the funds generated. Read more....
• Access Fund Award:
  The SLCA has won the Access Fund's 2009 Stewardship Award! From their website:
  Clif Bar and the Access Fund are proud to present the 2009 Stewardship Award to the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA) for their dedication in restoring Ferguson Canyon. This year the Ferguson Canyon Adopt-a-Crag brought in over 100 volunteers who accomplished 7 different projects including trail maintenance, graffiti removal, and creation of belay platforms. We sincerely appreciate SLCA and all of its volunteers for their hours spent improving Ferguson Canyon.
• Spring Fundraiser:
  Please Save-the-Date for the first annual Black Diamond SLCA fundraiser celebrating the alpine spirit of Seth Shaw on Thursday May 20th, 2010. Stay tuned for more details.
• Funds Raised, Thank You:
  At the Black Diamond gear swap last week, the SLCA raised over $240 selling donated gear and coffee from a locally owned and climber operated coffee shop. Drop by and visit Kyle Dempster, grab a cup of coffee and chat about climbing at the coffee shop on 2000 E 3300 S.
• Pete's Rock Clean-Up kicks off a busy season of stewardship opportunities:
  On April 10th, 2010 we will start things off with a climber's clean-up at Pete's Rock just off of I-215. Fire pits will be removed and large amounts of garbage will be collected and hauled off. This project is a grassroots movement spearheaded by SLCA member Hilary Lufkin and we are excited to help her out in cleaning up one of the most visible climbing areas in the Salt Lake Valley. Also, on May 8th we will be returning to the LCC - Crescent Crack Buttress/Egg Trail and on June 5th it's back to Ferguson Canyon. More information on these events and more will be available on our Projects and Feedback forum as the dates get closer.
• 3rd Annual Ogden Climbers Festival and Clean-up:
  The weekend of April 9-10 is also the date of the 3rd Annual Climbers Festival. Slideshows Friday and Saturday night. Gear demos with the WSU Outdoor Program. Bouldering Comp on Saturday with an after-party at Roosters Brewery Saturday night. Most importantly, we could use your help at the Ogden Boulder Field Clean-up Saturday morning at 8:30am. The FrontRunner is an excellent route up to Ogden, or post on our forum to look for a rideshare.



• On tour, Core:
  On Thursday, April 22 the Salt Lake City premiere of Chuck Fryberger's CORE will include two showings at Brewvies. Tickets are $10 and will be available at the door. For more information see the Facebook invite or the Core website.

The Continuum Project Tour comes to SLC

Join us this next week at Brewvies for the first stop on the nationwide tour of Chris Alstrin's newest film, "The Continuum Project." From Utah to Norway, perfect granite to chossy sandstone to crumbling ice, Chris follows some of the world's most adventurous climbers in their search for another great new route.

The film shows this Wednesday, March 10, at 7:30 PM at Brewvies (677 S 200 W) and Tickets cost $10. Paid SLCA members can get in for half off the ticket price!

Members will also enjoy discounts online at Backcountry.com, details coming soon. Soon you will be able to grab the gear you need to enjoy the Wasatch to its fullest. Please let us know if you ever have any questions or ideas for projects and events that you would like to see. You can reach us via email or at our online forum at http://www.saltlakeclimbers.org/forum.

Also, the 3rd round of Wasatch climbing tomorrow surveys will be available online starting March 25. Thanks to everyone for all your support thus far, but we need to make sure that Salt Lake Climbers have a voice in the future management plans of the canyons. Please take the time to fill out the survey once again (it'll be much shorter this time around!), and be sure to contact us through our website if you have any questions or concerns about this planning process.

Just under 2 weeks 'til spring is officially here!

Season's Greetings! The Salt Lake Climbers' Alliance would like to wish you all Happy New Year. Please read on for some year-end news and announcements.

Egg Trail mini-project
On November 15 with the help of 13 volunteers, we were able to finish up the massive Egg Trail project that we began in the fall of 2008. This last phase consisted of building steps up the final section of the trail and improving drainage. A huge thank you to all the volunteers who made this happen. When things thaw out, please be sure to check out the improved trail and enjoy the great routes on the Egg, Hong Wall and the Coffin Buttress.

Wasatch Canyons Tomorrow Survey
Thanks to everyone who participated in this critical survey. Your feedback is very important and will help guide county planners in future Wasatch development. For updates on the planning process, please check out the thread on SLCA's "Projects and Feedback" forum.

We'd like to specifically thank the Front and Momentum for allowing us to use their gyms as bases to encourage climbers to participate in the survey (and we're grateful for the laptops the Front loaned us!). The outreach program wouldn't have worked without the help of a few valuable volunteers: Hilary Lufkin, Dave Budge, Rob Candland and George Poulton.

Possible Solitude Mountain Resort expansion into Silver Fork
Besides having great, easily accessible backcountry skiing, Silver Fork is also home to some new rock climbing routes (here and here). It was recently reported that Solitude Mountain Resort is trying to expand into Silver Fork. This potential privatization of public lands puts access to both climbing and backcountry skiing in this area in jeopardy. We will keep you informed as this issue develops.

Proposed Cottonwood Canyon development expansion
While not directly affecting established climbing areas, the undetermined future of the ongoing development at the mouth of Big Cottonwood Canyon will likely diminish the undeveloped foothills of the canyon, increase traffic in and around the canyon and establish new zoning providing for further development. To learn more about the issue, please check out the article in the Salt Lake City Weekly .

There will be a Public Hearing on January 12 (exact time and location TBA). We'll keep you informed. Please take a moment to learn more and sign the petition urging Cottonwoods Heights to protect the foothills on Save Our Canyons' website.

SLCA Financial Data
In case you were curious, we've posted SLCA's financial information for 2007 and 2008.  If you have further questions please contact us. And if after reading and seeing our financial situation, you'd like to help us to continue the work we do, please donate and become a member.

What will it be like to climb in the Wasatch in 10 years?
Will we need permits to climb Pentapitch?
Will we have to take a bus to go bouldering?
A fee to park while climbing Steorts' Ridge?

The Wasatch Canyons Tomorrow survey is going to help set the framework for recreation land use in the Wasatch for the next 20 years. It's important that we as climbers let our voices be heard about issues that will have an impact on the our outdoor experiences. Wanna have a say?

The SLCA is partnering with the Front and Momentum to help spread the word about this important initiative. While taking a break, be sure to stop by one of the computers (thanks to the Front for loaning the computers), take the survey and learn more what the SLCA is doing and how you can get involved and help support us

More about the survey and the SLCA's role

The Wasatch Canyons Tomorrow process is your opportunity to help update Salt Lake County’s 1989 Wasatch Canyons Master Plan. This plan guides land-use policy for City Creek, Emigration, Red Butte, Parleys, Millcreek, Big Cottonwood, and Little Cottonwood Canyons.  Results from the survey may be used as a framework for the update of the Wasatch Canyons Master Plan which, along with the future revision of the Wasatch-Cache National Forest Plan, will guide the management of the Wasatch Canyons for the next thirty years. 

This may well be the most important point in the process for our voices to be heard, so please take some time to fill out a survey. It will be online until November 20, so please don't miss this opportunity!

The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance has been participating in the Technical Advisory Committee (TAC) meetings throughout the summer, assisting Envision Utah in preparation for this survey.  The SLCA focused on parking/transportation issues by pointing out climber parking and use patterns.  (The number of access points in Scenario C is an attempt to consolidate climber parking in a way that makes sense relative to the resource, safety, and the potential for future transit stops.  The mileage in the last column of the Dispersed Recreation Focus figures is a rough attempt at designating the number of miles in the canyons, along which climbers could legally park.) 

While filling out the survey, keep in mind that the concepts up for evaluation are not necessarily exclusive to any one scenario.  For example, just because improved climber trails and trailheads are a part of Scenario C does not mean that it can’t be a part of a revised scenario along with improved transit and even parking fees in the final report.  Focus on the concepts that make sense to you, and be sure to write thoughtful comments. Feel free to contact SLCA board members if you have any questions or comments.

Wasatch Canyons Master Plan

It's time for the second round of public participation in the Wasatch Canyons Tomorrow planning process. After months of work along with and many steering and technical advisory committee meetings, Envision Utah has scheduled public open houses for November 4th and 5th with an online survey going live today at http://www.wasatchcanyons.slco.org/. This is another round of public input-through-survey for the Canyons Master Plan.

It is IMPERATIVE that we, as climbers, skiers, dog walkers, nature lovers, etc. get involved and make our voices be heard. It is an extremely political process and numbers really matter. In the last round of surveys, climbers really made an impact, with 10% of respondents stating that they climb. That put climbers on the map as an important user group. We need to amplify our voices even more if we are to have meaningful impact.

Based on the results of the first survey, Envision Utah has formulated several scenarios showcasing different management strategies for recreation, land use, transportation, and the resorts in the Wasatch Canyons. They range from methods designed to curb demand such as requiring permits for climbing and backcountry skiing along with charging for parking, to efforts designed to meet growing demand such as consolidating/improving climbing trails and increasing year-round public transit. The survey asks for comments on scenarios as well as the individual strategies. This public input will then be considered in for inclusion in the draft of the Wasatch Canyons Master Plan.

The WCMP will stand alone, but it will be considered in Salt Lake County's Master Plan, and eventually in the Forest Plan. All of these plans will be revised in the next few years, so it is important that we are able to represent as a user group. Our next chance for the WCMP will be in 2030, so please take some time to review the posters, and fill out the survey.

If you'd like to learn more about the proposals, attend the two open houses next week:

6:30-8:00 p.m., Wednesday, November 4th
Skyline High School Cafeteria
3251 East 3760 South, Salt Lake City 84109
Sandy City Hall
10000 Centennial Parkway, Sandy 84070 (second floor multipurpose room)

6:30-8:00 p.m., Thursday, November 5th
West High School
241 North 300 West, Salt Lake City 84103 (Commons Area)
West Jordan High School
8136 South 2700 West , West Jordan 84088 (Media Center)

SLCA Fall Update

Adopt-a-Crag Day
Ferguson Canyon

On September 26 the Salt Lake Climbers' Alliance hosted the Ferguson Canyon Adopt-A-Crag and the outpouring of support for this project was tremendous. During the day over 100 volunteers accomplished much needed trail maintenance, trail erosion control, social trail elimination, graffiti removal, clean-up of trash, and the creation of belay platforms. All participants enjoyed a tasty lunch from Sage's Cafe, walked away with some amazing raffle giveaways, and most importantly, made a difference for the climbing community and other recreation users in Ferguson Canyon.

Coordinating and hosting the annual Adopt-a-Crag would not be possible without the generous support of our non-profit and land management partners; industry and local sponsors; and certain individuals.

Thanks to our Lead Sponsors: Black Diamond, Liberty Mountain, The Front Climbing Club, Momentum, Rockreation

Thanks to all our other Sponsors: American Alpine Club-Northern Rockies Section, Backcountry.com, Bell Organic Gardens, Beans and Brews, Clif Bar, DMM Climbing, Evolv, IME, Patagonia, Petzl, REI, Redpoint Nutrition, Red Chili, Restop, Rock and Ice, Sage's Cafe, Sterling Rope, Utah Mountain Adventures, Wild Country

Special Thanks to our Partners: Access Fund, American Alpine Club, ASCA, Cottonwood Canyons Foundation, HERA Foundation, US Forest Service, The Wasatch Mountain Club

We would also like to thank Tommy Chandler, John Evans and Nathan Smith for photos and Jansen Gunderson for providing the photo and design/layout of our flyer. Thanks to Steve Greene and the Oakley School and Boy Scout Troop 820 from Riverton for their hard work and support, and finally thank you to Chris Budge, Amy Collins and Nita Kofchock for staffing the tent.

Most of all, to our amazing participants, without the generous donation of your time and effort, our projects would not be possible - THANK YOU!

Mini Crag Day
Graffiti removal at the Beer Can Cave

A small group of Salt Lake Climbers Alliance Board members, Liaisons, and climbers tackled the imposing job of removing the notorious graffiti plaguing the Beer Can Cave Boulder in Little Cottonwood Canyon on September 19.

After hauling up hoses, sand, and the blaster, the group removed all of the graffiti that was located on top of the boulder. A small section of graffiti was removed around the actual cave; however the sand ran out before it could be finished. This situation was unavoidable and the group felt that the work, accomplished after eight hours, was acceptable. Unfortunately, the prospect of a clean canvas of rock was too much to pass up for some individual and in less than two days the top of the boulder was re-tagged.

Undaunted, the SLCA will continue working on removing graffiti within LCC and other Salt Lake Valley climbing areas. If you see new graffiti in the canyons you can post the location and pictures on the SLCA Projects Forum and if you see taggers you can contact the Salt Lake County Sheriff at 801-743-7000.

AAC/SLCA Craggin' Classic

Despite the cold temps and a bit of snow, the Craggin' Classic went off without a hitch. The AAC has done a great job summing up the event, so we won't go into great detail here (and there's a report on Black Diamond's site on the International Climbers' Meet) . There is also a short video that shows a little more about what went down over the weekend. It was awesome to see the local old schoolers and hardmen come out for Brian Smoot's historical slideshow of climbing in the Wasatch. Andrew Burr's slideshow brought us in to the present with inspiring images of the people and places we all know and love. Nathan Smith has put together a slideshow of portraits he made during the infamous night of live music with Use As Is and the Tolchok Trio. Thanks to the American Alpine Club (including Brittany Griffiths and Dana Richardson) for bringing the event to Salt Lake and giving us a reason to celebrate and show-off our local climbing resources. Additionally thanks to all the sponsors that supported the event and the SLCA.

But there are some SLCA volunteers, without whom the event would have surely been a fizzle, and we wanted to take a moment to recognize them. First off, Cynthia Levinthal spent long hours planning, organizing and re-organizing for the event. Without her help, there might have been no venue, no alcohol, no food, no fun... Agnes Chiao once again really helped us by organizing the crack team SLCA volunteers that did everything from serve booze to man the doors. And thanks to the rest of the SLCA volunteers (you know who you are), including the local specialists who took visiting climbers out for a taste of Wasatch stone! Finally, on Sunday we able to complete most of the work at Ferguson we began the week earlier. That's huge! Thanks to everyone who moved stones, broke rocks and constructed nice comfy belay platforms - including two guys who drove all the way out from Colorado.