Little Cottonwood Canyon is now a Historic Climbing Area
On August 5th, 2024, Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC) became America’s first recreational climbing area to be listed in the National Register of Historical Places.
This advocacy work celebrates the legacy of climbing in LCC that lives on today. Recognizing LCC climbing and its surrounding landscape for its historical value elevates the need to protect and preserve this special place in the hearts and minds of Utahns.
As climbing continues to evolve, the routes and the passion for where we climb remain the same. We have a challenge and responsibility to preserve and protect these iconic climbing landscapes, rich with historical value.
Because we can save a place a thousand times, but lose it only once.
-
A gathering centered around the designation will occur September 25th, 2024 from 5:30-6:30PM in the Lower Little Cottonwood Park & Ride.
Speakers & option for a one-mile hike along the historical Alpenbock Loop led by SLCA staff.
-
The Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing Area’s period of significance is 1962-1974. Both technical and non-technical climbing in Utah pre-dates this period; however, those activities are less documented. The Alpenbock Climbing Club established routes in the historical area and beyond. They served as the county’s first mountain search and rescue unit.
This period of significance spans from when Alpenbock Climbing Club members Ted Wilson and Larry Love established the first recorded climbing route to the time when route and technical climbing knowledge was passed person-to-person, rather than guidebooks or apps. It also captures the rise of the Leave No Trace movement in climbing - embraced and promoted by the Alpenbock Climbing Club—and the winter/ice climbing led by George Lowe.
The Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing Area holds statewide significance as an excellent representation of a culturally important district in the areas of Recreation and Social History in Salt Lake County, Utah.
In the area of Recreation, the district is significant for its contributions to the development of early rock climbing, the establishment of “classic” climbing routes, the pioneering of hard-rock climbing technology, and the fostering of local enthusiasm for climbing as an outdoor activity. The distinctive granite formations within the historic district have remained unchanged since 1962 and are closely interconnected within a relatively small geographic area.
In the area of Social History, the district is significant for its association with the local Alpenbock Climbing Club and with individuals whose activities were critical in building the Utah climbing community and connecting it with the national climbing community through recognized figures such as Yvon Chouinard, Royal Robbins, Fred Beckey, and Layton Kor. These national figures helped legitimize climbing in Little Cottonwood Canyon, elevated the status of the Alpenbock Climbing Club, and contributed to the spread of international climbing culture. Notable local climbers were highly proficient and internationally experienced, working in search and rescue locally and in the Grand Tetons throughout the 1960s.
Read the full proposal here.
---
From 2022-2024, the SLCA worked to nominate lower Little Cottonwood Canyon’s (LCC) as a historical climbing area. This advocacy work celebrates the legacy of climbing in LCC that lives on today. Recognizing LCC climbing and its surrounding landscape for its historical value elevates the need to protect and preserve this special place in the hearts and minds of Utahns.
With the support of grants, we were able to hire specialist Kirk Huffaker Preservation Strategies to write the historical nomination. On August 5th, 2024, lower Little Cottonwood Canyon become America’s first recreational climbing area to be listed in the National Register of Historical Places. This could not have been accomplished without the expertise of volunteer SLCA Policy Committee Member and Assistant Director of the American West Center, John Flynn. A huge thanks to University of Utah Librarian Tallie Casucci and her library colleagues for their dedicated work on this project. We appreciate the endorsement from the Forest Service and the Utah State Historic Preservation Office.
What
The National Register of Historic Places (NRHP) is the United States federal government's official list of districts, sites, buildings, structures, and objects deemed worthy of preservation for their historical significance or "great artistic value." The NRHP is a program of the National Park Service and is locally administered by the Utah State Historic Preservation Office.
The Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing Area Historic District holds statewide significance as an excellent representation of a culturally important district in the areas of Recreation and Social History in Salt Lake County, Utah. Its significance is recognized on a statewide level due to the rapid development of climbing as a recreational sport within the district, which was primarily driven by one group—the Alpenbock Climbing Club.
Where
The Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing Area is located at the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon, south east of Salt Lake City, UT. This area can be accessed from two main areas: the Little Cottonwood Park and Ride via the Alpenbock Loop trail or Pipeline trail and the Grit Mill Parking area via the Grit Mill Trail.
Climbing information such as routes and bouldering can be found on Mountain Project and in the guidebookA Granite Guide - Ferguson to Lone Peak.
-
The Alpenbock Trail is named in honor of the Alpenbock Club. The club's members were the first ascentionists of many of the classic climbing routes in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Although people had tried to climb the granite as early as 1930, the first documented climbing route in Little Cottonwood Canyon was done by Alpenbock Members: Ted Wilson and Bob Stout. Established in 1961, Chickenhead Holiday opened the eyes of Alpenbock Club members and started an era of technical climbing in Little Cottonwood Canyon.
The Grit Mill Connector Trail was named after a mid-20th century poultry grit production facility that was removed in 2014 as part of the remediation of the site. The granite grit produced at this mill was supplied to turkey farms in the area where it was fed to the birds to help with digestion.
-
The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance is making a short film! But we need your help and support to bring this story to the big screen!
Delve into the history of legendary Wasatch climbers in a short documentary, celebrating our climbing legacy in Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons, and the enduring spirit of the Alpenbock Club amid contemporary preservation challenges.
Learn more here.
PRESS
Interactive Historical Hike
Tour Description
While short in length (1.5 miles), the hike is moderate in difficulty due to the terrain. It is not recommended for those with leg injuries, balance issues, or young children. By attending a tour, you assume all risk associated with participating in a physical activity of this nature.
Pre-Tour Reminders
Consider doing the following before formally starting the tour to help identify participants’ motivation for attending:
Before we begin the tour, please take this opportunity to use the restroom and ensure all valuables are secured in your vehicle, as theft can be an issue in these canyons. Be prepared to hike for approximately 1.5 hours, and bring any sun protection, clothing layers, and water you may need.
This landscape is home to rattlesnakes and ticks, so please watch your step and wear closed-toe shoes. We also recommend long pants, as you may encounter poison ivy. Be sure to check for ticks after the tour.
Stop 1 – Welcome & Introduction
*See map above
Welcome to the historic Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing Area, the first recreational climbing site in the United States to be listed in the National Register of Historic Places. This tour, presented by the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance, will highlight the natural, scenic, cultural, and historic character of this remarkable site, as well as the unique individuals who pioneered climbing routes here starting in the late 1950s.
Geological & Geographical Context:
Little Cottonwood Canyon is a glacially carved U-shaped valley. The base elevation is 5,374 feet, rising to 8,720 feet at the end of SR-210 above Alta Ski Resort. Albion Basin once held a glacier that deposited massive boulders and carved canyon walls as it receded. Surrounding the valley are 11,000-foot-high granite peaks, providing abundant terrain for backcountry skiing, hiking, camping, and climbing.
Land Acknowledgment:
Long before climbing, this land was traversed and stewarded by the Indigenous peoples of Utah — including the Paiute, Ute, Goshute, Shoshone, and Navajo Tribes. Little Cottonwood Canyon served as a vital thoroughfare that benefited all of these Tribes prior to colonization. We honor and respect the resilience and stewardship these native communities have shown across the state of Utah.
Climbing Legacy:
This area is world-renowned for the quality of its climbing. As Yvon Chouinard, founder of Chouinard Equipment (now Black Diamond) and Patagonia once said:
“We choose to believe that the granite is alive. If life is movement, then rock… is alive. It’s a harmless concept that adds a lot of enjoyment and respect and responsibility to our lives.”
The canyon features rock types ranging from granite to quartzite to limestone, but it is the white granite—quartz monzonite—that defines Little Cottonwood Canyon climbing. With less quartz than true granite, quartz monzonite fractures granually, similar to the granite of Yosemite.
Two geologic features make this rock special for climbers:
Chickenheads: Protrusions of harder rock, resistant to erosion, named by Ted Wilson and Bob Stout in their route “Chickenhead Holiday.”
Cooling joints: Vertical crack systems formed as the rock cooled, ideal for climbing protection and technique.
These formations result in textured, geometric surfaces that provide excellent friction for climbers.
Site Overview:
The historic climbing site is located on the north slope of lower Little Cottonwood Canyon and includes:
6 climbing areas
9 bouldering locations
2 trail segments
The site is traditionally divided into:
Upper half: Vertical climbing (requiring ropes and gear)
Lower half: Bouldering (no ropes)
Stop 2 – Alpenbock Trail + Alpenbock Club
*Show Photo 1 – The Club in 1961
This trail is rightly named after the climbing club that pioneered climbing here in the canyon. The Alpenbock Club was a group of adventurous high school students who sought new challenges. They chose the name “Alpenbock,” which they believed meant “mountain goat,” though the strict German translation is “alpine sawyer.” The term also references the Alpine longhorn beetle. Without the internet, the translation was a bit questionable—but the name stuck.
The club was founded in the late 1950s by a small group of students at Olympus High School, inspired by films about climbing Everest. They were not only motivated by personal adventure but also committed to climbing safely, respectfully, and to documenting their activities.
Thanks to their skills and initiative, the Alpenbock Club became the first volunteer search and rescue crew in Salt Lake County, and laid the groundwork for what would eventually become today’s Salt Lake County Search & Rescue.
The period of significance for this site—during which the Alpenbock Club was most active—spans 1962 to 1974.
*Show Photo 2 – Club members rigging a litter during a training exercise
A quote by climber and author Ron Kauk feels especially appropriate at this stop:
“It’s really all about the ones who came before, who inspired us to prepare ourselves — to develop the physical strength and technique to enter the unknown with confidence and take care of ourselves in this environment.”
*Show Photo 3 – The original club patch
We are currently on a segment of the Alpenbock Trail, a project led by the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA)—a local nonprofit dedicated to rock climbing stewardship and advocacy.
Major support for this trail came from:
Utah Division of Outdoor Recreation
Recreational Trails Program
The trail plan was approved by the Forest Service in 2012, and the main route was constructed to Forest Service trail standards, with final completion in November 2020.
You’ll see examples of:
Forest Service standard trail work (along main trail)
Climbing route spurs with rock stairways and steeper terrain
The trail is now used year-round by hikers, trail runners, and climbers.
As of April 2021, the Alpenbock Loop Trail is the largest climbing access trail project ever completed on Forest Service land in the United States.
Stop 3 – Equipment
*Point out Bong Eater
*Show Photo 4 – Club members having breakfast amongst the boulders
The first ascent of this 75-foot pitch, known as Bong Eater, was completed in 1964 by Warren Marshall and Lenny Nelson. In 1974, George Lowe and Pete Gibbs became the first to free climb it. The climb is rated 5.10d on the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS).
About the Yosemite Decimal System
The YDS was developed in the 1950s and evolved from a hiking difficulty scale.
Class 5 terrain signifies technical rock climbing.
Routes start at 5.0 and increase in difficulty.
Beginning at 5.10, ratings include a–d suffixes (e.g., 5.10a, 5.10b) for more precision.
The system is open-ended—as of 2023, the hardest rated climb is 5.15d.
Vertical routes like this typically require:
Use of ropes and protection
Climbers ascending in pairs or teams, belaying one another
Descents via rappelling or hiking off
What’s a “Bong”?
A bong, sometimes called a bong bong, is the largest type of piton used to anchor into rock.
Made from sheet aluminum
Named for the distinctive sound it makes when hammered into place
Used to protect climbers from falls or assist in aid climbing
*Show Photo 5 – A Chouinard Company bong bong piton
A piton is a metal spike driven into a rock crack using a hammer.
Acts as a fixed anchor
Has a ring or eye hole for attaching a carabiner
The carabiner connects to the climbing rope for protection
This route likely required or lost many pitons in early ascents—hence the name Bong Eater.
There are still piton scars in the rock—visible remnants of earlier climbing eras.
While they are no longer used regularly, these scars are considered character-defining features of historic climbing.
Today, pitons have been largely replaced by:
Camming units
Nuts (passive protection)
These tools perform better and minimize damage to the rock, reflecting the shift to clean climbing practices.
Stop 4 – Climbing Technique
*Point out each route from left to right
The feature in front of you, known as Mexican Crack, has seven historic routes:
Three were first climbed in 1963
The most recent in 1970
Ranging in height from 80 to 300 feet
Difficulty ratings range from 5.7 to 5.11a
The wall is part of what’s known as Crescent Crack Buttress.
Route Naming
Traditionally, the first ascentionists name the routes.
There’s no formal process—names are often influenced by:
A climber’s life experiences
Running jokes
Creative whims
For example, this wall includes routes named:
Crack in the Woods
Hand Jive
No Jive Arete
Spanish Fly
Mexican Crack
3 Amigos
Grunting Gringos
If you’re curious, the Granite Guide and MountainProject.com are excellent resources to explore more stories and route histories.
Granite and Joint Patterns
Granite, the dominant rock type here, provides geometric joint patterns that:
Help climbers predict rock quality
Offer natural paths for placing gear
Create crack systems ideal for climbing
*Show Photo 6 – A club member using friction to ascend in attire of the era
This canyon is a world-class granite climbing area—but it demands a unique technique called technical slab climbing.
Climbing Technique: Friction & Chickenheads
Climbers often rely on friction, using shoes and body position to stick to the rock.
“Smearing” is when you place your foot flat against the rock, relying on rubber friction—like smearing cream cheese on a bagel.
With no defined footholds, it can feel like standing on nothing.
Luckily, climbers sometimes encounter “chickenheads” (also called knobs)—rounded, blob-like protrusions that can be used for hands or feet. These are common in weathered granite areas such as:
Little Cottonwood Canyon
Yosemite
Joshua Tree
South Platte, Colorado
Environmental Considerations
Friction improves in cooler temperatures, which is why many climbers visit year-round.
Even as you hike, you’re using this same friction. But beware of “kitty litter”—tiny, loose granite particles that reduce traction and increase difficulty on climbs and trails.
Regional Rock Variety in Utah
Utah offers a broad spectrum of climbing experiences:
Quartzite in the Uintas: steep, sharp, and edge-heavy
Cobble climbing in Maple Canyon: like climbing a cemented wall of river rocks
Sandstone cracks in Indian Creek: vertical splitters requiring jamming technique
Each rock type shapes the climber’s experience and the skills required.
Stop 5 – Viewshed
*Point out The Coffin (left) and The Sail Face (center)
*Show Photo 7 – The scrapbook illustration of the Wilson-Love route on the Sail Face and route on the Coffin
The Sail Face has three historic routes, each first climbed between 1962–1964.
Approximate height: 100 feet
Difficulty: 5.7–5.8
The Coffin, located on the right side of Crescent Crack Buttress, was first climbed in 1963 by Alpenbock Club members Court Richards and Jim Gully.
Difficulty: 5.9
*Show Photo 8 – Ted Wilson in 1962 on the first attempt of The Coffin
Importance of Viewsheds
This is a great opportunity to reflect on how viewsheds—what you see to and from a climbing area—are integral to the climbing experience.
In historic preservation, viewsheds are a component of the historic setting.
A sense of openness and naturalness remains strong in Little Cottonwood Canyon.
Despite modern development, the experience today is remarkably similar to that of early climbers.
Climbing is not just about reaching the top—it’s about the journey, the challenge, and the view that rewards your effort.
Little Cottonwood Canyon offers:
Towering granite walls
Expansive views both up and down canyon
Scenic lines into the Salt Lake Valley
These views allow modern climbers to connect with the dramatic natural setting and appreciate the legacy of those who climbed before.
Quote from Alpenbock climber Larry Love:
“We made it, and we’re still breathing. Just a great feeling of having a friend there with me and the view.”
Stop 6 – Circulation
*Point out the trail going down from pipeline
From the time of the Alpenbock Club through the late 2000s, climbers accessed the base of climbing sites via a web of wildlife and social trails. These informal routes:
Required bushwhacking through natural areas
Often changed from visit to visit
Contributed to erosion and degradation of the landscape
There was no standard approach—no two climbers took the exact same way twice.
The original main climbing access trail from SR-210 is located here.
It was convenient because it fell between two major bouldering areas.
It connected to the already established Pipeline Trail.
Back then, the goal wasn’t a nicely graded hike—it was simply getting to the climb.
Some climbers even joked that the steep, loose social trails were more difficult than the climbing routes themselves.
Leave No Trace and Clean Climbing Legacy
The Alpenbock Club was ahead of its time in promoting values that align with today’s Leave No Trace principles.
Their early commitment included:
Minimizing impact to the natural environment
Transitioning from damaging pitons to clean gear like cams and nuts
(passive protection that doesn’t scar the rock)
That ethic of care lives on today through the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance and its stewardship efforts.
Stop 7 – Bouldering
*Take the group around to a northeast-facing vantage point of Copperhead and Shothole
Welcome to the Secret Garden, one of the two historic bouldering areas in Little Cottonwood Canyon.
In the era of the Alpenbock Club, the term bouldering wasn’t widely used. However, they used these boulders for:
Training
Warming up
Skill development
—practices that laid the foundation for what would become a major discipline in climbing.
By the 1990s, bouldering had become popularized and named as its own style. Today, it’s a growing sport, with USA Climbing athletes and Olympians training on these very boulders to build their mental and physical strength.
Boulders here:
Copperhead Boulder (larger)
Shothole Boulder (to the right)
About Bouldering
Takes place on shorter rock features (typically no ropes)
Descents are usually by jumping down or walking off
Protection comes from crash pads (portable foam landing pads)
Often a solo or meditative activity, but also social and collaborative
Key benefits:
Minimal gear
High accessibility
Deep personal connection to specific problems and stone
These granite boulders provide:
Shady, protected climbing in summer months
High-quality stone with both faces and cracks
Dozens of documented boulder problems, with route ratings from V0 to V13
Cultural and Historical Context
Many of the boulders show blast marks—scars left from quarrying granite for construction of the Salt Lake Temple by The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints.
*Show Photo 9 – LDS workers at the granite quarry in Little Cottonwood Canyon
These blast holes have even become part of the climbing problems, adding unique features and challenges.
Land Access and Stewardship
The Gate Buttress lies on private land owned by the LDS Church.
In 2017, the Church granted SLCA and the Access Fund a recreational lease to provide public access and stewardship of:
Nearly 600 climbing routes
Over 150 boulder problems on 140 acres
This lease allows SLCA to:
Build and maintain access trails
Replace and inspect fixed anchors
Promote responsible climbing behavior
*Show map of Gate Buttress
*Note: The Gate Buttress property cannot be accessed from the Alpenbock Loop or Grit Mill parking lot because of the Church vaults.
Historic Bouldering Ratings
Lower half of the historic site includes:
9 bouldering areas
Problems rated V0 to V12 using the V Scale, developed in the 1990s by John “Vermin” Sherman at Hueco Tanks, Texas.
Easiest: VB (Beginner) and V0
Hardest (currently): V16 to V17
Some variation exists between V-grades depending on local styles and conditions.
*Show Photo 10 – Club members working at the boulders
*Show Photo 11 – Shot Hole boulder and routes
Shothole: 4 routes, V1–V8
Copperhead: 13 documented routes, V0–V13
Stop 8 – Industrial History of the Canyon
*Stop with the group at the concrete remnant with the large partial hole
*Show Photo 12 – Off-width boulder with Royal Robbins
Royal Robbins was a pioneer of American rock climbing, known for many first ascents in Yosemite National Park and for being a strong advocate of clean climbing (without bolts and pitons). Starting in the late 1960s, his ethical approach helped redefine climbing culture across the U.S.
Robbins is also considered one of the originators of modern bouldering, and his presence here in Little Cottonwood Canyon links this area directly to that broader climbing legacy.
Historic Infrastructure
This trail once supported a water pipeline that ran through the canyon.
Concrete and metal remnants of the system still exist along the trail and in the surrounding vegetation.
*Show Photo 13 – The rail line up the canyon, circa 1880
Little Cottonwood Canyon has a deep industrial past:
Granite quarrying began in the 1860s
The first railroad was built in 1873 to haul ore from Alta and granite from the quarry
The line was modernized several times and operated through 1918
Beside the railroad was:
A rudimentary road for wagons (and later, cars)
Water treatment and power plants, versions of which still exist today
*Show Photo 14 – Miners at Alta
This photo of Alta miners captures another layer of the canyon’s history—the mining boom that shaped infrastructure, economy, and use patterns in the canyon. These miners helped spur the development of transport systems and resource extraction that left a lasting imprint on the landscape.
Alongside these industrial activities were early water and power facilities, some of which still operate today.
*Show Photo 15 – The Murray Power Plant
The Murray Power Plant is a reminder of the early industrial infrastructure tied to Little Cottonwood Canyon’s water and energy resources. Power and water management facilities have long played a role in shaping land use in the lower canyon, and while some still operate today, their presence contrasts with the otherwise natural landscape.
*Show Photo 16 – The Church vaults as seen in the 1960s
The Church granite mountain vaults are intrusions.
*Show Photo 17 – The grit mill
A grit mill was operating near here — at the upper trailhead — by 1953. It was used to sift and crush granite into turkey grit. These small granite particles aided digestion by lodging within a turkey’s gizzard to grind feed. The mill operated for about a decade, then remained vacant until it was demolished in 2014 by the Wasatch Legacy Project — a partnership of the Forest Service, Snowbird, and SLCA — due to its use as a vandalism site.
A second derelict structure, the Whitmore Pavilion, located across the canyon along the LCC Trail, was also demolished and the site rehabilitated for similar reasons.
Historians consider the parking lots, small subdivisions, and even the Church vaults just above here to be negative impacts to the historic and scenic character of the site and canyon — though to a far lesser degree than extractive or industrial development.
Many of you may know that a gondola has been proposed in this canyon to help alleviate winter traffic. If constructed, the gondola would:
Be up to ten stories high in some locations
Include enormous concrete tower footings
Pass directly overhead at this very site
This project would represent the most significant negative impact to the historic climbing site — permanently altering the viewshed and integrity of the landscape.
Stop 9 – Wrap-Up and Thank You
We have arrived back at our origin point.
Thank you for attending this tour of the historic Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing Area. Please consider joining the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA) to support our mission and more programs like this — designed to document, educate, and advocate for climbing preservation.
Join us in Big Cottonwood Canyon for future historic climbing hikes!
Final Quote – Ron Kauk
“It amazes me to realize how sacred granite is, what it has provided — from sculptured works of art to the offering of a way of life.
The opportunity to write ourselves into these boulders and granite walls has created stories that can help us understand who we are.
Learning skills to overcome obstacles that become symbols of life’s journey.”
About the Film
Stay tuned for the original short film, Alpenbock.
Climbing is part of what it means to be a Utahn — a legacy still celebrated by a new generation of climbers today. But with growing interest comes growing responsibility: we must protect and preserve these historically rich places.
“We can save a place a thousand times, but lose it only once.”
Because of community advocacy and stewardship, the experience of climbing here — from the 1960s to today — has remained largely unchanged. Though the sport evolves, the routes, the landscape, and the passion remain the same.