Indian Creek Anchor Maintenance
A SLCA & Access Fund Joint Membership stewardship collaboration
The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA) and the Access Fund are teaming up to replace aging top anchors at some of Indian Creek’s most popular crags: Battle of the Bulge and Super Crack areas. This collaboration builds on the Access Fund’s years of stewardship and education in Indian Creek, along with SLCA’s extensive experience in professional anchor maintenance. Please consider becoming a joint member of the SLCA and Access Fund to support efforts like this!
Background
In 2024, a pilot program took place at the Second Meat Wall to identify, remove, and replace deteriorating anchors. The project used 4 ¾" x 1/2’’ glue-in bolts, stainless steel chain, quick links, rappel rings, and mussy hooks—and proved highly successful.
Now, we’re back for a second season. From November 3–7, 2025, SLCA and the Access Fund will focus on replacing aging, loose, or damaged anchors at the Battle of the Bulge and Super Crack areas, with the goal of making these iconic walls safer and more sustainable for years to come.
Why Replace Anchors in the creek?
Indian Creek is no stranger to anchor replacement. Over the last few decades, countless organizations and individuals have spent thousands of hours upgrading the original hardware on some of the Creek’s most classic crack climbs. Organizations like the American Safe Climbing Association, Friends of Indian Creek, and many dedicated volunteers have contributed to this work. While many routes have been upgraded, more still need attention—and some older updates now need to be re-done.
Soft Stone Beneath the Varnish: Though much of Indian Creek’s rock appears hard due to its dark varnish, the sandstone underneath is often quite soft.
Mechanical Bolts: Many of the mechanical bolts in Indian Creek are not ideal long-term. On popular routes, they tend to loosen over time with repeated traffic. Each time a bolt is re-tightened, the rock erodes slightly, enlarging the hole until the bolt no longer fits securely.
Camouflage: We will camouflage stainless steel chains and quick links to blend into the rock, in accordance with the Bears Ears Management Plan.
Reducing Resource Damage: By installing vertically stacked anchors, we can minimize rope drag and the “windshield wiper” effect that scars the rock. Many existing anchors are set far apart, and when the rope is pulled, the chains spread and scratch the wall—damage that can often be seen from a distance, even from the road.
Properly Installed Glue-In Bolts: Glue-ins require attention to detail, but when done correctly, they bond deeply into the porous sandstone, require little maintenance, and are expected to last 50+ years. The SLCA team has installed thousands of glue-ins and knows what to look for to ensure long-term safety.
Removing Outdated Hardware: While relics like webbing, pitons, or machine bolts tell a story of the area’s climbing history, they are not safe for modern use. We’ll remove these materials to eliminate use of antiquated hardware and ensure only solid, sustainable anchors remain.
Quality Lower-Offs: Each anchor will feature thick mussy hooks or rappel rings attached with quick links, allowing easy replacement of worn components without disturbing the entire system.
Crew in Action in 2024
