Big Cottonwood Anchor Maintenance Recap

June 26/23 - 30/23

Upper S-Curves

Recap by Anchor Maintenance Coordinator, Andrew Brodhead

Seven years ago the SLCA visited the Lower S-Curves in Big Cottonwood Canyon. Classic routes like Black Monday were replaced with modern hardware. Last month, its upper brother, the Upper S-Curves had its time for a modern makeover. With the cooler temperatures, we were able to sneak in one more week of south facing crags before summer temperatures truly hit.  

During the work week, the crew was able to replace 13 routes. Most of these routes were put up in 1990-2000. Though “relatively young” compared to most routes in the Wasatch, this hardware has been rusting for years. Some of the shorter classics like Urban Sprawl (5.10a) and Clean Underwear (5.9) got updated modern stainless steel glue ins. Also, two forgotten long classics like the “mixed” routes of Skyscraper (5.8+) and Glenlivet (5.10a) got their upgrades too. 

On Thursday the 29, we were visited by multiple board members and the staff from the Utah Division of Outdoor Recreation. It was an honor to get in depth with them on the ins and outs of rebolting, the program and working-at-height. One thing to hear about it but another to actually see it in action.  

By the end of the week, 87 bolts were replaced with sustainable glue ins. If you have never been to the Upper S-Curves it's a pleasant place to be when temperatures are warming or starting to cool down due to its SW aspect. 

Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity and we encourage anyone who participates to obtain the appropriate education and training in order to minimize accidents.  We also encourage participants to consult resources including but not limited to guiding outfitters, SAR, Utah Avalanche Center, ranger stations, and weather reports. Nevertheless and although tragic, accidents can happen even when the participants have the proper training and have consulted authorities on conditions. Participants in outdoor climbing are assuming a risk, just as they do in skiing, mountain biking, kayaking, or other outdoor activities. Anchors once maintained by the SLCA are not guaranteed to be in the same state or condition as when they were maintained.